Don’t fear, “skin cycling” is not a high-energy, sweat-inducing spin workout for the skin , it is actually quite the opposite of a regimen, one that builds in recovery nights for this skin through intermittent or alternating use of active ingredients.

The term was coined by a board-certified dermatologist, Whitney Bowe, MD, and took off as most things do now on TikTok. In fact, Whitney’s videos themself have garnered over 3M views, while posts that mention skin cycling have garnered 3.5B views, and the specific #skincycling rose to 271 Million views by Feb 2023 alone on the platform.

But what exactly is skin cycling you ask?

In its most basic of routines, skin cycling aims at simplifying and strengthening your skin barrier by applying only 3 highly effective products in a 4-day cycle. While all four days consist of applying product, 2 of the 4 are for “active recovery” which means instead of applying high or strong active-containing products, you apply a moisturizer, whether that be #slugging, an ointment, oil, or cream. The goal of these two rest days is to prevent irritation and inflammation.

So what are the actual benefits of the cycle? We’ve highlighted three:

1. It repairs your skin barrier, alleviating symptoms of acne, eczema, or atopic dermatitis.
2. May reduce product side effects and appeals to budget-conscious individuals seeking high-quality items.
3. Prevents skin dryness and protects against seasonal issues, improving existing skin conditions in cold, windy, or dry climates.

Cycle levels: establishing your baseline level

Newbie Cyclers: Over 18.5 million views of Dr. Bowe’s TikToks – Those new to skin cycling have flexibility to use less harsh ingredients or stagger the rest days in between active days or add a rest day.

Super Cyclers: Is targeted to more advanced skin cycling has 898.2k views of Dr. Bowe’s TikToks – Those who are experienced with using highly active products, can layer more active days on, or chose to add actives to their rest days. There are many suggestions to make this routine more useful for each user’s skin.

Sensitive Cyclers: 1.3m views of Dr. Bowe’s TikToks – Given that this routine uses higher active products than some consumers are used to, these videos give advice on products and modifications to the routine to further reduce irritations.

Ingredients for effective skin cycling

Exfoliate

• TEGO® RenewHA Mandelic – an aromatic AHA with skin exfoliation benefits which promote a renewed skin appearance. It also has antibacterial benefits for reduction in appearance of skin blemishes.

Retinol

• ROVISOME® Retinol Moist Pro MB – a stabilized form of vitamin A that can effectively reduce the appearance of wrinkles without inducing skin irritation. It does not contain antioxidant stabilizers such as BHA and BHT.
• InuMax® Advanced Retinol – uses InuMax® technology, a patent-pending delivery system that presents retinol stability and also enables the bioavailability of retinol into the deeper layers of the skin to maximize anti-aging benefits.

Rest
Recover & Boost the ECM

• RHEASOME® CeraBoost – an innovative delivery system that improves skin barrier from within, and boost skin’s own ceramide production.
• SKINMIMICS® PRO MB – a synergistic and powerful combination of 7 different ceramides. It offers skin regeneration from within and an improved barrier function.
• HyaCare® 50 – a tight junction strengthening hyaluronic acid that fills wrinkles from the inside and reduces deep wrinkles as well as crow feet.
• HyaCare® Tremella – derived from the Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Mushroom, it is a naturally isolated Hyaluronic Acid that has proven moisturization and humectency properties.
• TEGO® Natural Madecassoside – a highly refined triterpenoid saponin from the Gotu kola plant. It improves collagen synthesis to enhance skin recovery and increases the natural moisture factors such as aquaporin-3 for skin calming effects.
• TEGO® Pep 4-17 MB – an ECM boosting peptide. This preservative-free solution shows superior collagen, hyaluronic acid, and fibronectin boosting activity.
• TEGO® Pep UP – is a biomimetic tetrapeptide that boosts collagen and ECM components. It also has a lifting effect and improves facial contouring.
• BeautiFerm Lift – is a natural ingredient obtained from fermentation of Pichia pastoris strain. This strain provides unique benefits due to its up-regulation of cellular activity. It restores skin firmness, elasticity, & texture.

Happy Cycling!

Color (noun)

: a phenomenon of light (such as red, brown, pink, or gray) or visual perception that enables one to differentiate otherwise identical objects.
(Merriam-Webster Dictionary)

From the neon pink eyeshadow that we are intrigued to buy, to picking a vacation destination with bright blue waters, colors have a way of capturing our attention and even changing the way we feel. Color theory teaches us how we perceive colors and what visual effects are obtained when certain colors are combined. With the highly visual world that we live in, colors are the most effective tool for our eyes to pick up on and understand visual cues.

We can’t talk about colors without understanding the color wheel and its different categories. Developed in the 1600’s by Sir Isaac Newton, the color wheel offers a visual representation of how various hues are arranged. Let’s breakdown it down:

Primary Colors – Red, Yellow, Blue

These colors give life to all other colors when mixed in various combinations. They also pave the way for various emotions that we feel when we see these colors. Red can be associated with warmth, excitement, and power. Yellow stimulates emotions of optimism, calmness, & clarity. Blue hues can evoke feelings of sorrow, reflection, or expansiveness.

Naturally Colored Clays to Get You Started:

• Beraclay Red

Secondary Colors – Green, Orange, Purple

Positioned in between primary colors on the color wheel, secondary colors are achieved when 2 primary colors are combined in equal proportions. Green gives us a sense of ease, prosperity, and relaxation. Purple represents royalty and calmness. Orange is uplifting, boosts energy (Vitamin C anyone?), and often associated to spirituality and vitality.

Naturally Colored Clays to Get You Started:

• Beraclay Light Green

Tertiary Colors – A Union of the Two

When primary and secondary colors are mixed, tertiary colors are made. Warm shades such as red-orange, red-purple, yellow-orange are welcoming colors that capture attention, energize, and may also increase appetite. Cooler hues such as blue-green, blue-purple, and yellow-green bring a sense of tranquility, serenity, and relaxation.

Naturally Colored Clays to Get You Started:

• Amazonian White Clay
• Beraclay Brown
• Beraclay Gold 
• Beraclay Light Red

With post-pandemic consumers now beginning to take ownership of their beauty routines, the personal care industry plays an important part in recognizing the desire for more inclusive representation, especially in the color cosmetic realm.There is no “one size fits all” scenario when it comes to color cosmetics and the demand for brands to continue creating accessible and diverse products ranges continues to rise.

For many, color cosmetics provide the opportunity showcase self-expression, boost self-confidence, and help with mental wellbeing. The study of color psychology comes into play when colors are discussed in relation to human behavior. Whether it’s a vibrant lip color or a beautiful bronzer that gives a sunkissed glow, cosmetics can be used as a tool to change the way we are perceived by others.

The Eyes

As they say, the eyes are the window to the soul. Eyes become the focus point when we converse and can often help us understand a person’s emotions. To give this area of the face definition and depth, cosmetics with darker hues such as a black kohl eyeliner are used. Colored versions of eye cosmetics give a sense of edginess, contrast, and brightness.

The color wheel plays an important role when considering eyeshadows. Colors that are on opposite sides of the wheel complement each other. For example, for green eyes, eye makeup that have a warmer tone such as reds or purples would complement this eye color best as these colors are on the opposite side of green on the color wheel.

Ingredient Highlights

• Versagel® MD – fast-drying and transfer-resistant gel that is an ideal vehicle for delivering pigments and other solid materials for quick-set anhydrous applications
• Versagel® MN – clear anhydrous gels that provide an elegant feel. Enable fine particles such as pigments to be readily dispersed with minimal settling and agglomeration

The Face

Skin type and skin texture vary from individual to individual. Foundations and concealers help create a base for any make up look while also hiding imperfections such as scars and discoloration. For those with troubled skin, these products play an important role in helping with self-confidence. When formulating these types of products, the Fitzpatrick Scale, a classification of skin types, becomes a helpful resource to create various shade ranges. Learn how you can determine how to formulate for diversity here.

Bronzer, contours, and blushes are often used to add dimension and color to the face. In late 2021, purple blush became all the rage after going viral from a TikTok influencer who used color theory and the color wheel to pick this shade based on their skin tone. Bronzers and contours aim to enhance features of the face, giving visual effects of depth and definition.

Ingredient Highlight

• Quartz Crystal Facial Scrub – 100% natural exfoliating agent, renewing skin and stratum corneum

The Lips

The use of lip makeup dates all the way back to 3500 BC where red rocks were pulverized to create a red lip tint. In Egyptian history, insects were crushed into colorful pastes to use on the face for beautification and to show social status. In current times, there are endless choices of lip products available to choose from and wear. As mask mandates lifted, lip makeup has become the fastest growing category. According to NPD, sales revenue of lip makeup was up 48% in Q1 of 2022. Multi-benefit lip products such as lip shimmers that impart a color while hydrating lips also grew in popularity this year. Lip products hold the power of transforming and expressing oneself during times were representation and inclusivity are celebrated. Makeup is no longer about fitting into a box of beauty trends or standards. Instead, it’s about using these cosmetics as a tool to step outside the box and define beauty in a way that is unique to each of us.

Ingredient Highlights

• Versastique Clear Stique Technology – multi-functional material that provides a better way to formulate solid stick applications
• Versagel® MD – fast-drying and transfer-resistant gel that is an ideal vehicle for delivering pigments and other solid materials for quick-set anhydrous applications
• Versagel® ME – gelled emollient providing moisturization and lip conditioning benefits
• Versagel® MP – acts as a fast spreading emollient, providing soft and supple texture

With the disruption in daily routines unlikely to completely return to steady levels due to a looming recession and unstable job markets, consumers are turning towards multi-purpose, high quality, and sustainable products that are simple to use. According to Mintel, 24% of global consumers associate multi-functional and multi-benefit products with good value for money. Solutions that save time and money especially during times where recession may be looming are top of mind for many consumers. These can include incorporation of SPF in cosmetic products, on-the-go hydrating mists, & skin care ingredients that work from deep within!

By taking into consideration the economic changes that happened due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the Color Cosmetics market size is forecasted to be ~$84 Million USD by 2028 (Source: Global News Wire). That number doesn’t even include the skin care that toe the line between color and skin care routines that aim to Dew Color Right by achieving flawless, glass-like skin with a touch of color.

Interested to learn more? Check out our Color Cosmetics roadmap for more ingredient highlights, starting point formulations, and information on current trends!

As the book written on The Science of Communicating Science explains, SciComm is “a variety of practices that transmit scientific ideas, methods, knowledge and research to non-expert audiences in an accessible, understandable or useful way.” And that is such a beautiful thing we in cosmetic chemistry get to share with our customer base. Consumers have dubbed themselves as “skintellectuals”, which is a cute way of saying they are taking the time to investigate the ingredients that go into their skin care products. In fact, 75% said they request more information from brands about product ingredients and benefits. Many consumers however have surface-level knowledge of those ingredients and how they will address their individual skin care needs. We at Azelis aim to help you align their needs with ingredients better suited through proper communication of the science behind them!

According to Businesswire, Amid the COVID-19 crisis, the global market for Active Ingredients for Cosmetics is estimated at US$3.5 Billion in the year 2022 alone, and projected for $4.3 Billion by 2026, so we will start right there.

Let us break down the science of Actives and how they translate to efficacy, value, and trust from your consumers even while we face yet another recession; and how communicating the right things has the potential to lead to brand loyalty for you.

#skinimilism

As we address consumers’ hunger for simplicity, transparency and efficacy, or more directly put; the concern for stripping away ingredients that is the “Express Lane of Personal Care” dubbed clean beauty. We must actually address that minimalism or simplicity doesn’t mean ineffective, on the contrary, it relies more on the efficacy of the ingredients which are responsible for the claims that interest your consumers. 

The delivery of our messaging should be thorough while also being decipherable for everyone. This is important as we face the potential for more misinformation and hurdles in the digital age. As we already understand the complications of supply issues over the last several years, we should also understand that this is something that we are likely to continue facing. Ingredients that are engineered have previously gotten a bad rap, however, with the power of education, this can shift and lab-grown and fermented sources can move into a more key role and enhance more drastically the sustainability story of products.

Although it can be more challenging to combat the buzzwords and fast pace of social media, as they say, “Science is Science.” So, by enlightening and educating consumers on the methods of delivery, coupled with the ingredient origins (which is where a lot of the ingredient conversations took place over the last decade) it becomes second nature to define how claims become evident to the average consumer with the more than average appetite for research. When it comes to science, and sceptics there is nothing compared to the power of proof.

Delivery with Purpose; Make it Easier with Delivery Systems

Break into why delivery systems such as those highlighted below not only deliver the same functionality as the actives, with better stability and ease of formulating:

• Inumax
• Oxyforce
• AquaPront
• Rovisome
• Herbapurifine
• Procontour

Click here to request our one-pager actives science communication roadmap which connects the dots between trends, formulations, & ingredients!

From a beautiful glass skin (“Chok Chok”) look to lustrous eye makeup, Korean Beauty continues to be all the rage in the industry. It has impacted the way that we view our skincare and makeup routines & products. A beauty routine with multiple steps, the objective of K-Beauty (Korean Beauty) is to get radiant, reflective skin that is smooth in both appearance and touch while also having visibility intense hydration.

View our Asian Beauty Roadmap

or discover more on the principals of Asian Inspired Beauty to learn more about the individual steps in this routine.

The origins of K-Beauty is based on a regime of 8 key steps:

1. Double cleanse (oil-based cleanser followed by water-based foaming cleanser is the most popular)
2. Exfoliate
3. Alcohol-free toner
4. Essense or mist
5. Serum or oil
6. Moisturizer
7. SPF
8. Mask

Buzzwords –

discover alternate buzzwords that stem from the Korean “kkandalgyal”  or “peeled egg” and how they differ.

Speaking the Same Language

The Perfect Skin refers to a combination emphasizing a clear and bright complexion with a transluscent finish and a smooth texture. K-Beauty consists of various terms used to describe the skin. Some of these terms include:

Why not incorporate ingredients with the namesake!

Kkul: Honey!

• Honey in Glycerin
• Propolis Oléoactif 
• NutraPlant II

Formulations Containing or Inspired by Honey

• Honey Body Lotion
• Make-up Remover Honey Oil Gel
• SensoFluid Cleansing Milk
• Honey & Hibiscus Foaming Cleanser 

How Kkul! Launches Climb Steadily & There is Plenty of Room for Opportunities

 

The number of launches that deliver hydration and moisturization and promote “Dewy” or “Glow”, “Glaze”, “Glossy”, “Glass” has nearly tripled since K-Beauty broke on the scene in the western world.

The majority of launches by far remains face care, which means there is plenty of opportunity for body care, color cosmetics and sun care even! Consider breaking into Active Beauty!

Glazed Like a Donut, But Not so Greasy

Factor in your target audience and speak to their skin type to help them understand the levels necessary for optimal hydration. “Fresh Sweat” (light perspiration) is no longer a total negative as it fits with the health proponents sweeping the beauty industry. Achieving that fresh out of the gym look. For those with combination skin, controlling sebum is a must in order to prevent greasy looking skin.

Gloss Like a Boss

Adding ingredients that target to adjust to just the right level of gloss and shine is key, the following ingredients do just that!

Pore Some More:

For sebum absorption, check out:

• Herbapurifine®
• Microzest 25 Rice
• AGENAFLO 9050

Try these Formulas:

• EcoGizer Serum
• Natural Deep Cleansing Foam
• Natural Pure and Glow Tonic

Artichoke Leaf Extract has been shown to increase moisture retention in the skin and to tighten pore enlarged by environmental aggressors. Other Actives targeted to pores:

• AquaPront®
• dermosoft® decalact sebum

It’s Not Necessary to Over Dew It

To break it down to it’s 2 most basic steps:

1. Exfoliator to buff skin for its smoothest texture
2. Hydrating serum/essense/mist to help give a fresh spring morning appearance

We suggest a serum hybrid/base. Try out this Diamond Gal Shimmering Serum!

More Ingredient Inspiration from Food

Fermented ingredients have had a long standing use in both food and personal care in Asia and Korea specifically. An ingredient such as active yeast for instance, help in cell regrowth. Other fermented ingredients deliver a myriad of benefits such as soothing and brightening properties.

Other ingredients that are derived from fermentation include:

• BIOME Oléoactif®
• TEGO® COSMO EPL

Keep protection at an all time high by including SPF and antioxidants in your formulation. We have already listed them out for you here!

What’s Next?

Consider adding color or focusing on target areas of the face. Looking to go Bigger?

Big Name Brands Bring Dew to all Skins Surfaces

There is a term in Korean “Kkulbeogji” very roughly translated to sexy honey thighs. In reality it is bringing the healthy glowing focus from just the face to the entire skin surface. Helping to reveal a total glow from within healthy appearance.

Check out this B³ (Beautiful-Body-Bronzer) Tone-up formulation.

Routine Formulas for a Polished Start

• Facial Cleansing Peeling Cream
• Relipidification Crystal Cleanser
• Micellar Gel
• AquaMilk Cream
• Hydrating Water Cream Base
• AquaHydrating Serum
• Hydra Plus Day Cream
• Turmeric Non-Nano Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50
• Light as Air Moisturizer
• Endless Emotion Day Cream and Second Skin Mask
• Hydrating Anti-Pollution Cleansing Oil Gel
• 8 Hour Cream
• On-The-Go Cleansing Stick