In the ever-evolving realm of high-end cosmetics, ceramides stand out as pivotal ingredients—known for their deep-rooted role in maintaining healthy skin and scalp. These lipid molecules are fundamental to the skin’s barrier function, delivering hydration, resilience, and rejuvenation. But the conversation around ceramides is shifting. Once confined to classic moisturizers, today’s ceramides are being reimagined across unexpected categories, textures, and formats.

Why Ceramides Matter

Backed by over three decades of development and biotechnology-driven innovation, ceramides have become a cornerstone of functional formulation. Their versatility, biocompatibility, and performance benefits make them an ideal choice for formulators seeking to address a wide range of consumer needs:

• Barrier Reinforcement: Ceramides are a key component of the stratum corneum, helping prevent transepidermal water loss and shielding skin from environmental stressors.

• Hydration Retention: They stabilize the lipid matrix, helping skin retain essential moisture for a soft, supple finish.

• Skin Renewal: Bioactive ceramides support healthy desquamation, encouraging smoother texture and a more even tone.

• Anti-Aging Benefits: Short-chain ceramides can enhance cellular signaling, improving elasticity and reducing the look of fine lines.

• Hair and Scalp Health: In scalp and hair care, ceramides help reduce irritation, repair surface damage, and reinforce the protective lipid layer.

Beyond Moisturizers: Unlocking New Ceramide Applications

While ceramides have long been used in moisturizers and recovery creams, new product launches are pushing the boundaries of where and how ceramides can perform. Whether driven by format innovation, sustainability, or multifunctional claims, these formulations reflect an emerging shift in how consumers—and chemists—view barrier care:

A viral hit on social media, this frozen serum is designed to be applied as a skin-calming pop. Infused with calming botanicals like cucumber and calendula, the inclusion of ceramides elevates its credibility as a barrier-repair solution that’s as fun as it is functional.
→ Ceramides meet sensory innovation in a skin-soothing format.

This hybrid essence-toner leverages natural maple water as a base, then amplifies its skin-replenishing effects with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and fermented minerals. Ideal for skin in need of gentle exfoliation and deep hydration, it reflects a trend toward “skinimalism” with science-backed ingredients.
→ Barrier care reimagined in a watery, lightweight layer.

This plastic-free, water-reducing solid shampoo bar uses a unique “benefit blend” of ceramides and niacinamide to strengthen hair and support scalp health. The formula proves that haircare can deliver both sustainability and efficacy without compromise.
→ Ceramides take center stage in solid format innovation.

Consider an application like this with a newer launch

The Opportunity Ahead

As “barrier health” becomes a mainstream consumer priority, formulators have a powerful opportunity to explore new spaces for ceramides. From scalp serums to cleansing formats, intimate care to frozen skincare pops, ceramides are proving they’re not just relevant—they’re essential across categories.

What was once considered a staple is now a springboard for creative, science-backed product design. The ceramide renaissance is here—and the possibilities are only just beginning.

Let’s redefine where barrier care belongs.

Interested in formulating with ceramides in new ways? Check out these product suggestions to start:

Bodyflux Olive

A biotech ceramide complex from organic olive oil that boosts skin hydration and barrier function—naturally and sustainably.

Sphinox Defenda

Sphingony

Don’t fear, “skin cycling” is not a high-energy, sweat-inducing spin workout for the skin , it is actually quite the opposite of a regimen, one that builds in recovery nights for this skin through intermittent or alternating use of active ingredients.

The term was coined by a board-certified dermatologist, Whitney Bowe, MD, and took off as most things do now on TikTok. In fact, Whitney’s videos themself have garnered over 3M views, while posts that mention skin cycling have garnered 3.5B views, and the specific #skincycling rose to 271 Million views by Feb 2023 alone on the platform.

But what exactly is skin cycling you ask?

In its most basic of routines, skin cycling aims at simplifying and strengthening your skin barrier by applying only 3 highly effective products in a 4-day cycle. While all four days consist of applying product, 2 of the 4 are for “active recovery” which means instead of applying high or strong active-containing products, you apply a moisturizer, whether that be #slugging, an ointment, oil, or cream. The goal of these two rest days is to prevent irritation and inflammation.

So what are the actual benefits of the cycle? We’ve highlighted three:

1. It repairs your skin barrier, alleviating symptoms of acne, eczema, or atopic dermatitis.
2. May reduce product side effects and appeals to budget-conscious individuals seeking high-quality items.
3. Prevents skin dryness and protects against seasonal issues, improving existing skin conditions in cold, windy, or dry climates.

Cycle levels: establishing your baseline level

Newbie Cyclers: Over 18.5 million views of Dr. Bowe’s TikToks – Those new to skin cycling have flexibility to use less harsh ingredients or stagger the rest days in between active days or add a rest day.

Super Cyclers: Is targeted to more advanced skin cycling has 898.2k views of Dr. Bowe’s TikToks – Those who are experienced with using highly active products, can layer more active days on, or chose to add actives to their rest days. There are many suggestions to make this routine more useful for each user’s skin.

Sensitive Cyclers: 1.3m views of Dr. Bowe’s TikToks – Given that this routine uses higher active products than some consumers are used to, these videos give advice on products and modifications to the routine to further reduce irritations.

Ingredients for effective skin cycling

Exfoliate

• TEGO® RenewHA Mandelic – an aromatic AHA with skin exfoliation benefits which promote a renewed skin appearance. It also has antibacterial benefits for reduction in appearance of skin blemishes.

Retinol

• ROVISOME® Retinol Moist Pro MB – a stabilized form of vitamin A that can effectively reduce the appearance of wrinkles without inducing skin irritation. It does not contain antioxidant stabilizers such as BHA and BHT.
• InuMax® Advanced Retinol – uses InuMax® technology, a patent-pending delivery system that presents retinol stability and also enables the bioavailability of retinol into the deeper layers of the skin to maximize anti-aging benefits.

Rest
Recover & Boost the ECM

• RHEASOME® CeraBoost – an innovative delivery system that improves skin barrier from within, and boost skin’s own ceramide production.
• SKINMIMICS® PRO MB – a synergistic and powerful combination of 7 different ceramides. It offers skin regeneration from within and an improved barrier function.
• HyaCare® 50 – a tight junction strengthening hyaluronic acid that fills wrinkles from the inside and reduces deep wrinkles as well as crow feet.
• HyaCare® Tremella – derived from the Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Mushroom, it is a naturally isolated Hyaluronic Acid that has proven moisturization and humectency properties.
• TEGO® Natural Madecassoside – a highly refined triterpenoid saponin from the Gotu kola plant. It improves collagen synthesis to enhance skin recovery and increases the natural moisture factors such as aquaporin-3 for skin calming effects.
• TEGO® Pep 4-17 MB – an ECM boosting peptide. This preservative-free solution shows superior collagen, hyaluronic acid, and fibronectin boosting activity.
• TEGO® Pep UP – is a biomimetic tetrapeptide that boosts collagen and ECM components. It also has a lifting effect and improves facial contouring.
• BeautiFerm Lift – is a natural ingredient obtained from fermentation of Pichia pastoris strain. This strain provides unique benefits due to its up-regulation of cellular activity. It restores skin firmness, elasticity, & texture.

Happy Cycling!

As the book written on The Science of Communicating Science explains, SciComm is “a variety of practices that transmit scientific ideas, methods, knowledge and research to non-expert audiences in an accessible, understandable or useful way.” And that is such a beautiful thing we in cosmetic chemistry get to share with our customer base. Consumers have dubbed themselves as “skintellectuals”, which is a cute way of saying they are taking the time to investigate the ingredients that go into their skin care products. In fact, 75% said they request more information from brands about product ingredients and benefits. Many consumers however have surface-level knowledge of those ingredients and how they will address their individual skin care needs. We at Azelis aim to help you align their needs with ingredients better suited through proper communication of the science behind them!

According to Businesswire, Amid the COVID-19 crisis, the global market for Active Ingredients for Cosmetics is estimated at US$3.5 Billion in the year 2022 alone, and projected for $4.3 Billion by 2026, so we will start right there.

Let us break down the science of Actives and how they translate to efficacy, value, and trust from your consumers even while we face yet another recession; and how communicating the right things has the potential to lead to brand loyalty for you.

#skinimilism

As we address consumers’ hunger for simplicity, transparency and efficacy, or more directly put; the concern for stripping away ingredients that is the “Express Lane of Personal Care” dubbed clean beauty. We must actually address that minimalism or simplicity doesn’t mean ineffective, on the contrary, it relies more on the efficacy of the ingredients which are responsible for the claims that interest your consumers. 

The delivery of our messaging should be thorough while also being decipherable for everyone. This is important as we face the potential for more misinformation and hurdles in the digital age. As we already understand the complications of supply issues over the last several years, we should also understand that this is something that we are likely to continue facing. Ingredients that are engineered have previously gotten a bad rap, however, with the power of education, this can shift and lab-grown and fermented sources can move into a more key role and enhance more drastically the sustainability story of products.

Although it can be more challenging to combat the buzzwords and fast pace of social media, as they say, “Science is Science.” So, by enlightening and educating consumers on the methods of delivery, coupled with the ingredient origins (which is where a lot of the ingredient conversations took place over the last decade) it becomes second nature to define how claims become evident to the average consumer with the more than average appetite for research. When it comes to science, and sceptics there is nothing compared to the power of proof.

Delivery with Purpose; Make it Easier with Delivery Systems

Break into why delivery systems such as those highlighted below not only deliver the same functionality as the actives, with better stability and ease of formulating:

• Inumax
• Oxyforce
• AquaPront
• Rovisome
• Herbapurifine
• Procontour

Click here to request our one-pager actives science communication roadmap which connects the dots between trends, formulations, & ingredients!

From a beautiful glass skin (“Chok Chok”) look to lustrous eye makeup, Korean Beauty continues to be all the rage in the industry. It has impacted the way that we view our skincare and makeup routines & products. A beauty routine with multiple steps, the objective of K-Beauty (Korean Beauty) is to get radiant, reflective skin that is smooth in both appearance and touch while also having visibility intense hydration.

View our Asian Beauty Roadmap

or discover more on the principals of Asian Inspired Beauty to learn more about the individual steps in this routine.

The origins of K-Beauty is based on a regime of 8 key steps:

1. Double cleanse (oil-based cleanser followed by water-based foaming cleanser is the most popular)
2. Exfoliate
3. Alcohol-free toner
4. Essense or mist
5. Serum or oil
6. Moisturizer
7. SPF
8. Mask

Buzzwords –

discover alternate buzzwords that stem from the Korean “kkandalgyal”  or “peeled egg” and how they differ.

Speaking the Same Language

The Perfect Skin refers to a combination emphasizing a clear and bright complexion with a transluscent finish and a smooth texture. K-Beauty consists of various terms used to describe the skin. Some of these terms include:

Why not incorporate ingredients with the namesake!

Kkul: Honey!

• Honey in Glycerin
• Propolis Oléoactif 
• NutraPlant II

Formulations Containing or Inspired by Honey

• Honey Body Lotion
• Make-up Remover Honey Oil Gel
• SensoFluid Cleansing Milk
• Honey & Hibiscus Foaming Cleanser 

How Kkul! Launches Climb Steadily & There is Plenty of Room for Opportunities

 

The number of launches that deliver hydration and moisturization and promote “Dewy” or “Glow”, “Glaze”, “Glossy”, “Glass” has nearly tripled since K-Beauty broke on the scene in the western world.

The majority of launches by far remains face care, which means there is plenty of opportunity for body care, color cosmetics and sun care even! Consider breaking into Active Beauty!

Glazed Like a Donut, But Not so Greasy

Factor in your target audience and speak to their skin type to help them understand the levels necessary for optimal hydration. “Fresh Sweat” (light perspiration) is no longer a total negative as it fits with the health proponents sweeping the beauty industry. Achieving that fresh out of the gym look. For those with combination skin, controlling sebum is a must in order to prevent greasy looking skin.

Gloss Like a Boss

Adding ingredients that target to adjust to just the right level of gloss and shine is key, the following ingredients do just that!

Pore Some More:

For sebum absorption, check out:

• Herbapurifine®
• Microzest 25 Rice
• AGENAFLO 9050

Try these Formulas:

• EcoGizer Serum
• Natural Deep Cleansing Foam
• Natural Pure and Glow Tonic

Artichoke Leaf Extract has been shown to increase moisture retention in the skin and to tighten pore enlarged by environmental aggressors. Other Actives targeted to pores:

• AquaPront®
• dermosoft® decalact sebum

It’s Not Necessary to Over Dew It

To break it down to it’s 2 most basic steps:

1. Exfoliator to buff skin for its smoothest texture
2. Hydrating serum/essense/mist to help give a fresh spring morning appearance

We suggest a serum hybrid/base. Try out this Diamond Gal Shimmering Serum!

More Ingredient Inspiration from Food

Fermented ingredients have had a long standing use in both food and personal care in Asia and Korea specifically. An ingredient such as active yeast for instance, help in cell regrowth. Other fermented ingredients deliver a myriad of benefits such as soothing and brightening properties.

Other ingredients that are derived from fermentation include:

• BIOME Oléoactif®
• TEGO® COSMO EPL

Keep protection at an all time high by including SPF and antioxidants in your formulation. We have already listed them out for you here!

What’s Next?

Consider adding color or focusing on target areas of the face. Looking to go Bigger?

Big Name Brands Bring Dew to all Skins Surfaces

There is a term in Korean “Kkulbeogji” very roughly translated to sexy honey thighs. In reality it is bringing the healthy glowing focus from just the face to the entire skin surface. Helping to reveal a total glow from within healthy appearance.

Check out this B³ (Beautiful-Body-Bronzer) Tone-up formulation.

Routine Formulas for a Polished Start

• Facial Cleansing Peeling Cream
• Relipidification Crystal Cleanser
• Micellar Gel
• AquaMilk Cream
• Hydrating Water Cream Base
• AquaHydrating Serum
• Hydra Plus Day Cream
• Turmeric Non-Nano Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50
• Light as Air Moisturizer
• Endless Emotion Day Cream and Second Skin Mask
• Hydrating Anti-Pollution Cleansing Oil Gel
• 8 Hour Cream
• On-The-Go Cleansing Stick